Synthetic motorcycle oil – this is a huge market and very competitive as there are just so many brands & claims. Plus, bikers are so much closer, touchier and feelier with their bikes and what they buy, modify and use, it is a much more personal decision & choice.
Yes, I’ve got a bike too and ride and share with many our experiences. I am very close to my bike and only want the best. Here I can share with you the top rated synthetic motorcycle oil available in the market.
Best Synthetic motorcycle Oil Comparison
Last update on 2023-03-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Before considering whether to use conventional or synthetic oil in your engine, be sure you are using an oil with the correct grade and service rating for your motorcycle.
As a start, you still should rely on the API and SAE recommendations from the manuals for your specific bike.
However, if you want to go Full Synthetic and want to know more why you should use synthetic oil or what are the benefits, you can check out our article What is the best synthetic oil?.
Oil change is the most important thing that a person can do for their motorcycle. It does not cost a lot of money, but it saves a lot in repairs if not done regularly.
With this in mind, synthetic oil is one of the best investments that a motorcycle owner can make.
The Best Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
1. Mobil
Mobil’s history in racing goes back to the 1970s. While Mobil doesn’t sponsor any motorcycle racing teams, it is a major player on the NASCAR and Grand Prix circuits, where engine RPM eclipse those of even the highest revving sport bikes.
In an industry clogged with pseudo synthetics, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are refreshingly unchanging. They are based on advanced synthetic oil technology. These formulations are designed specifically for the unique needs of motorcycles.
These fully synthetic motorcycle oils are engineered to withstand the extreme heat produced by high-revving motorcycle engines and the toughest riding conditions.
The safety data sheets show PAOs and extremely low quantities of esters for both oils. These are same Group V synthetics that Mobil traditionally uses as additives to tailor its full synthetic oils to specific demands. In this case, those demands include high flow during the sporadic cold-weather starts many motorcycles endure, as well as the high temperatures incurred during high-speed operation.
For 4-Stroke Water-Cooled Sports bikers Mobil offers Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and for 4-Stroke Air-Cooled V-Twins Mobil offers Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 such as Harley-Davidson.
For 2-Strokes, Mobil still does market Full Synthetic Mobil 1 Racing 2T but the product was discontinued in USA. It is very popular in snowmobiles and in Asia Pacific.
Mobil 1 Racing 4T and V-Twin oils are synthetic oils. Both are specifically designed for motorcycles with wet-sump transmissions, though only the 10W-40 Racing 4T carries the JASO-MA2 certification. Both oils are intended for high-performance use, with Racing 4T containing 1200 PPM of zinc and V-Twin containing 1750 PPM.
Both formulas have high shear stability, and both provide the boost in acceleration that is the hallmark of all the best synthetic motorcycle oils.
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40
Most motorcycle engine oils on the market today also require wet clutch performance. Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 fits the ticket perfectly for sports bike – on or off road.
It is designed for wet-clutch common engine/transmission systems.
It is very shear stable and thus, provides a solid, protective oil film for engine bearings, piston rings, transmission gears and other critical engine parts.
It offers high – temperature stabilities and low volatilities/low oil consumption, and also offers anti-corrosion performance.
It has no friction modifiers that could lead to clutch slippage.
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 is engineered for you “cruisers” out there with air-cooled V-Twins or even water-cooled that specify a SAE 20W-50 motor oil.
What makes it one of the best motorcycle oils available is that it was scientifically engineered to withstand the extreme heat that air-cooled motorcycle engines produce using Synthetic Base Oil technology along with synergistic Additive technology.
It also allows riders to go longer and farther between oil changes.
The bike warms up faster and has less engine noise.
Users also reported that their engines have remarkably improved performance as well.
Pros:
- Enjoys a reputation as one of the few Group IV, motorcycle-specific oils offered by a major oil company
- Mobil has a proven track record of success and support for truth in synthetic advertising
- Neither formulation contains shift-wrecking friction modifiers
- Readily available at most auto parts stores
Cons:
- Likely due to its confusing advertising of its other synthetics, Mobil makes it difficult to verify its use of Group IV base stocks in its motorcycle oils
- High Price Tag
- For best performance, follow the manufacturer's recommendations in your vehicle owner’s manual.
Last update on 2023-03-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
- Product Type:Auto Accessory
- Item Package Dimension:7.625 " L X8.125 " W X9.625 " H
- Item Package Weight:11.0 Lbs
- Country Of Origin: China
Last update on 2023-03-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
2. Lucas
Lucas Oil is one of the biggest names in racing sponsorship. The company sponsors not just race teams, but racing series for drag racing and motocross as well.
Lucas’ marketing is compelling, with claims of lower operating temperatures, extended component life and improved engine performance dominating its advertising. But, is it all true?
Lucas’ claims of being a “true racing oil” are true, at least in the sense that it has a high level of zinc additive.
Lucas HP Synthetic’s 1,058 parts per million zinc content is well above the levels considered safe for catalytic converters, but it provides extra protection for screaming motorcycle engines.
Lucas is one of the few 20W-50 synthetic motor oils to meet the Japanese JASO-MA2 standards, which ensure that these oils are suitable for use in motorcycles in which the engine and transmission share lubricant.
Oils that do not carry this certification may contain friction modifiers that can reportedly cause clutch slipping.
Lucas’ synthetic version of the other main motorcycle-oil viscosity, 10W-40, is made with both Group III and Group IV ingredients, though, and it is not a true synthetic.
Similar to Harley Davidson oil, Lucas motorcycle oil delivers high quality performance when it is needed most. It is the result of a technology that involves blending gear and motor oils for the racing industry. This oil is easy to find at retail locations and costs much less than boutique synthetics such as Amsoil and Redline.
Users also noted that their engine temperatures remarkably decreased when using this oil. Aside from that, there is no slippage in clutch transmissions. It also has longer changing intervals.
People also noted less engine noise as well. However, some have reported foaming issues with this motorcycle oil. They believe that it is due to the additives found in the oil.
Pros:
- Meets JASO-MA2 standards – so no shift-wrecking friction modifiers
- Lucas has years of racing experience backing its lubricants
- High zinc levels coat engine parts, deterring damaging metal-on-metal contact
Cons:
- Some tests suggest an unstable viscosity
- More claims than proof to back them
- Package Dimensions: 8.75 L x 9.13 H x 7.75 W (inches)
- Package Weight : 12.5 pounds
- Country of Origin : United States
- Part number: 10702
Last update on 2023-03-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
3. Royal Purple
Once a boutique oil company, Royal Purple has steadily grown in popularity since its inception in 1986. The company now enjoys a reputation for making one of the best synthetic motorcycle oils on the market.
Much like other oil companies, that reputation is built on a track record in racing that includes the sponsorship of many different types of vehicles, including motorcycles.
Royal Purple 10W-40 meets API viscosity specs and is JASO MA2 certified, so it will not cause transmission slipping in bikes with wet-sump transmissions.
Royal Purple claims its oil enables engines to run cooler, and therefore produce more horsepower than other synthetics.
The company’s own comparisons back up Royal Purple’s horsepower improvement over conventional oil, but the implication that it outperforms any of the synthetic oils on this list lacks evidence.
It admittedly contains less zinc than the others, so motorcycles with catalytic converters may benefit from Royal Purple.
The testimonials and market speak aside, Royal Purple uses Group IV base stocks and is synthetic in the truest sense of the word. Its Synerlec additive combination improves the base stock’s shear properties and film strength, resulting in an oil that has an extended drain interval.
It also creates an ionic bond that leaves a film of oil on metallic engine parts, enabling it to mate and producing smoother surfaces over time. Any anecdotal horsepower gains are a secondary benefit to a longer engine life.
Pros:
- A true Group IV base stock in both 10W-40 and 20W-50
- Proven performance across racing platforms
- Cooler running engines
Cons:
- Prices set at boutique oil levels
- Not available everywhere oil is sold
- Formulated With Proprietary Synerlec Additive Chemistry Providing 3X To 4X The Load Carrying Capacity Of Other Synthetic Engine Oils
- High Film Strength Protects Buckets, Crankshafts And Reduces Piston Scuffing
- Superior Rust And Corrosion Protection
- Cooler Operation And Less Parasitic Power Loss
Last update on 2023-03-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
4. Castrol
Castrol, which has operated under the British Petroleum umbrella since 2000, now has a 4T racing oil marketed to motorcyclists.
Castrol, which has operated under the British Petroleum umbrella since 2000, now has a 4T racing oil marketed to motorcyclists.
Castrol Power 1 is a 4T synthetic oil with an additive package that Castrol calls Power Release, which it says increases power on hard acceleration.
Castrol’s comparison oil for its claim was a conventional 20W-50, though, and none of its real competition on this list was compared.
Looking over the Castrol Power 1 safety data sheet reveals both Group III and Group IV base stocks, but the petroleum distillates common in additive packages are normally distilled from petroleum.
However, up to 90 percent of the base stock is “highly refined,” which suggests a Group III base. Castrol Power 1 10W-40 has a viscosity index of 160, rivaling any oil with a Group IV base stock, but its overseas information proves it is made from Group III base stock.
Castrol is a longtime sponsor of racing motorcycles in both MotoGP and World Superbike circles. Regardless of its base stock, both 10W-40 and 20W50 Power 1 have proven track records of success on the road and at the highest echelons of motorcycle racing.
The Trizone Technology additives reduce engine friction, but Power 1 is certified as compliant with API SL and JASO MA2 standards, meaning it won’t cause clutch slipping and is suitable for extended drain intervals.
Pros:
- Improves acceleration over conventional oils
- Trizone additives reduce metal-on- metal friction in high-performance engines
- 10W-40 and 20W-50 oils suitable for use in wet- or dry-sump motorcycles
- Costs less than other oils on this list
- Extended drain intervals over conventional oils
Cons:
- Group III base stock
- American advertising seems purposefully misleading
- Formulated with Trizone technology to protect all 3 critical zones: engine, clutch and gearbox
- Race derived technology for maximum engine acceleration
- Extreme high temperature air-cooled performance and water-cooled engine performance
- Excellent shear stability to prevent viscosity breakdown
- Exceeds API SL and JASO MA-2
Last update on 2023-03-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
- Formulated with Trizone technology to protect all 3 critical zones: engine, clutch and gearbox
- Race derived technology for maximum engine acceleration
- Extreme high temperature air-cooled performance
- Excellent shear stability to prevent viscosity breakdown
- Exceeds API SL and JASO MA-2
Last update on 2023-03-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Synthetic Motor Oil and Motorcycles – Things You Need To Know
Additives and Clutch Slippage
Motorcycle-specific oils contain additives just like automotive oils do. The difference is that motorcycle oil has additives designed to work specifically in the extreme conditions found in high-revving motorcycle engines, while automotive oil is designed for relatively low-revving engines. High revs call for an oil that tolerates high-shear forces. Motorcycles with wet clutches also have their own needs.
Cars and some motorcycles (like Harley Davidsons) have separate reservoirs for engine and transmission oils. Automotive oils designed for car engines often contain additives meant to improve fuel mileage, which is specified on the bottom of the API seal with the term “Energy Conserving.”
These additives can cause wet clutches to slip during shifting. Many oil companies now make motorcycle-specific oils, without these additives, that are engineered specifically for wet-clutch bikes.
Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil
Synthetic oil and conventional oil are both composed of long-chain hydrocarbons. Both are refined to produce the most uniform molecules of hydrocarbons possible, but synthetic oils go through polymerization and distilling processes beyond those of conventional oils.
The hydrocarbons are cracked during refining, and/or rebuilt resulting in molecules of more uniform shape and size than those comprising conventional oil. Hence, synthetic oil flows better at low temperature, and it usually retains its viscosity much better at high temperatures.
Your motorcycle’s manual specifies a recommended oil change interval, and few if any are as low as the 3000 miles most oil companies recommend. However, the best synthetic motorcycle oils can last 10,000 miles or more, even under the harsh conditions that high-performance engines produce.
Conventional oils break into smaller hydrocarbon chains much faster than synthetic oils do, and extreme temperatures expedite this thermal breakdown. Because of the more-frequent oil changes that conventional oil requires, the difference in cost between the two is usually a wash.
Zinc in Oil
Manufacturers have been adding zinc — the common name for the zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate family of additives — to oil since the 1940s. Initially it was intended to be an antioxidant and prevent corrosion, but researchers soon discovered it had anti-wear properties as well. Zinc levels rose steadily in motor oils until the advent of the catalytic converter.
Base Stocks
The base stock is the oil(s) that manufacturers use to produce their motor oil. Modern base stocks are highly refined, even conventional ones. The API places base stocks in one of five groups, based on how refined its constituents are.
Groups I through III are petroleum-based. The higher the number, the less harmful sulfur and the more beneficial saturates are in the base stock. Groups IV (polyalphaolefins (PAO)) and V (esters, silicones, polyglycols, etc.) are the only truly synthetic base stocks, as they are chemically engineered.
What makes oil synthetic?
The answer to that question was solved legally when Mobil sued Castrol in the 1990s for using Group III base stock and calling its oil “synthetic.” Mobil maintained that synthetic oils should only be made from Group IV or Group V. Mobil lost its suit, as the ruling was that Group III oils were sufficiently altered so as to qualify as synthetic.
The result was that, in the U.S., petroleum-based oil can be marketed as synthetic if its base stock is Group III or higher.
In truth, most synthetics are made from petroleum distillates, whether they are made with Group III or Group IV base stocks.
The main difference between Group II and Group III is that Group II has a viscosity index (resistance to change) between 80 and 119, while Group III’s is above 120. Both contain less than .03-percent sulfur.
Group IV base oils are poly-alpha olefins (PAOs), which are synthesized from natural gas condensate (U.S.) and/or naphtha (Asia and Europe), and have a naturally high viscosity index. Regardless of feed stock, Group IV oils are still derived from naturally occurring hydrocarbons.
Conclusion
American riders looking to ensure that the oil they put in their motorcycles is a true, Group IV synthetic are in for a wild ride through mixed messages and convoluted advertising. That’s what happens when technical language becomes marketing speak.
In the U.S., synthetic only means highly refined, as Group III mineral oils can be nearly as wax-free as Group IV PAOs, with nearly equivalent flash points and high-temp pour points. In extremely cold environments, Group IV is still king, but we don’t normally ride at below-freezing temperatures to notice a difference.
In extremely hot environments, though, synthetics retain their viscosities better, and hence better protect engine components. This is where synthetic oils earn their keep in a motorcycle.
Most bikes operate at revs that would be past redline on the average sports car. For the money, Mobil 1’s Racing 4T and V-twin synthetics provide all the protection high-revving and hot-running engines need. They are readily available at most auto stores, and they tend to cost less than the boutique oils, making them likely the best synthetic motorcycle oil options.
What oil are you using? Would you consider changing your oil? Let us know. Any questions or comments please post them in the comment section below. Happy riding!
You May Like Bestsellers on Amazon:
- Full Synthetic Formula Helps Maximize Power And Acceleration
- Formulated To Provide Outstanding Wet Clutch Protection For Maximum Power Transfer And Smooth Shifting
- Added Protection Against Harmful Deposits That Can Decrease Engine Performance
- Excellent Wear And Corrosion Protection To Help Keep The Engine Performing Its Best
- 1 gallon, 10W40
- Genuine OEM Honda oil
- HONDA set the standard for motorcycle oil when it introduced GN4 way back in 1975
- specifically designed for the unique requirements of motorcycle and ATV engines.
- Product Type:Auto Accessory
- Item Package Dimension:7.625 " L X8.125 " W X9.625 " H
- Item Package Weight:11.0 Lbs
- Country Of Origin: China
- Prolonged engine life through improved engine cleanliness and reduced oil volatility Improved shift quality through enhanced transmission / clutch performance and dependability
- Recommended in applications requiring API SL, JASO MA and JASO MA2 engine oil
- Sold in Package Quantity of 4
- Formulated with Trizone technology to protect all 3 critical zones: engine, clutch and gearbox
- Active Protection Molecules (APM) are a new ingredient that enhance the lubricant's ability to cling to vital engine components
- Excellent engine wear protection during long trips, short commuting and stop/start conditions
- Superior added protection ensures adequate lubrication before the engine reaches 51°C - when most engine wear typically occurs
- Exceeds API SG and JASO MA-2
Last update on 2023-03-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
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Been using Mobil v twin and now Valvoline full syn thetic 4 stroke . May go back to Mobil vowing after reading this . Thanks for info –
Hi Critter:
You won’t be disappointed. Happy & Safe Riding!
Cheers
Gary
Hi Tom:
I’ve checked what engine oil is recommended by Honda for your 2005 Honda water-cooled V-Twin 750C Aero and they only state Honda genuine oils or equivalent. The minimum performance levels are API SG or higher and JASO MA with a viscosity of SAE 10W-40. So Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 meets or exceeds these recommendations and as such should not hurt your engine in anyway. Feel free to make the engine oil change but as with every oil changed, make sure you change the oil filter as well. You should then experience the full benefits of a synthetic oil based product. Happy & safe riding.
Cheers
Gary
I HAVE A 2005 HONDA VT 750C AERO M/C. I HAVE BEEN USING VALVOLINE 10W40 CONVENTIONAL M/C OIL AND IT WORKS WELL. I HAVE BEEN THINKING OF SWITCHING TO MOBILE 1 10W 40 SYNTHETIC. AS TO QUIETER AND COOLER RUNNING. ALSO SMOOTHER SHIFTING. WILL THIS OIL HURT MY ENGINE IN ANY WAY?
I’ve run Royal Purple in my v twins over 20 years now ….. prices are actually 25-33% lower now than 20 years ago but with this info think I will be switching to Mobil 1 in my 2016 Electra Glide Ultra Glide Classic. Bought in October 2017 with 5k miles they did 5k service with oil/filter change. I had a stroke in December 2017. Bike has 7k on it now so I’ll be changing oil and filter relatively soon.
Hi Steve:
Sorry to hear ’bout your stroke and hope all is well again. I’ve been using Mobil 1 V-Twin in my DynaWideGlide since 1998 and hasn’t missed a beat so I expect you will also be very happy with Mobil 1’s performance & protection. Ride Safe.
Cheers
Gary
I have been running Redline 10W40 motorcycle oil in my 1997 Goldwing GL 1500 SE for 4 years instead of the Honda and have been satisfied with it’s performance. I understand that it is made from a group 3 base stock. I am planning to try Royal purple or Mobile 1 4T because they are made from a group 4 base stock and are “true” synthetics.
Hi Dan:
Go for it – Group 4 base stocks are PAO’s and I believe the perfect oil molecule – Happy & Safe Riding.
Cheers
Gary
I changed the oil and filter on my 2007 Street Glide last October. Because of some things this summer, I only put about 1300 miles on the bike. Do I need to change the oil before winter storage or can I ride it again next season. The oil would still only have about 3,000 miles on it by then.
Hi Carl:
I think it would best to change the oil for your winter storage. Even though you have only done 3,000 miles I assume they may be a combination of short trips over the year? The oil may be OK but it will contain water, fuel and byproducts that could settle out or oxidise. Don’t forget to get the engine up to full running temperature for 5-10 minutes before draining and replacing the oil filter.
Cheers
Gary
Let me clarify……the oil will only have 1300 miles on it when I put it away this winter. I meant the oil will only have about 3,000 miles on it at the END of NEXT year. Will storing it with only 1300 miles on the oil, then riding it to 3,00 next year be OK? BTW, the oil in the bike is Mobil one V-Twin 20w 50. Sorry for the misunderstanding, and thank you!
Hi Carl:
Sorry I got confused and for your clarification. Should be OK to leave the oil as is over winter. BTW, I also use Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 and have done since new 1997 in my HD DWG. I reckon the best choice of engine oil for our Hogs. Happy & Safe Riding.
Cheers
Gary
Again, thank you!!
One last question…….would it be OK to run the same oil next season until I have about 3,000 miles on it?
Hi Carl:
I reckon absolutely OK maybe even for the whole season as long as one of those early runs is at highway speed for say 30 mins to get to maximum oil temperature to help remove any gasoline & water contamination.
Happy Cruising!
Gary
Thank you!
I have a 2006 Harley-Davidson V-Rod this is a higher revving V-Twin then most what oil should I be running in this bike?
Hi Craig:
Not only high revving but also liquid (water cooled) as against all other Harley-Davidsons that are air-cooled so require a higher viscosity and higher temperature protection. I found it very difficult to research what HD recommend/specify for a 2006 V-Rod other than their own brand, but suggest that any SAE 10W-40 latest car engine oil which claims to be synthetic should be OK.
Cheers
Gary
i have a 2012 yamaha stratoliner deluxe and a 2007 bmw r1200rt, what brand oil do you recommend, synthetic or semi-synthetic and 10-40 or 20-50 ?
Hi Joe:
Two bikes, both out of warranty but I hope in great condition such as no slipping clutches nor high oil-consumption? Both are 2-cylinder air-cooled engines but one is a V-Twin and one a Boxer. Both require API SG minimum specification for the engine and JASO MA minimum requirements/performance re wet clutch application. I will try and choose one engine oil for both. If no problem with oil-consumption then you could use an SAE 10W-40 as allows easier cold-starts, clutch feel and improved fuel consumption. An SAE 20W-50 is the most recommended viscosity grade for air-cooled V-Twins for both protection and oil-consumption due to higher engine temperatures. I would support going for a Full Synthetic versus a Semi Synthetic as you should find better oil breakdown control, volatility and relatively overall improved hot & cold performance. For an SAE 10W-40, suggest try Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 or Castrol Power1 10W-40 Synthetic 4T. For an SAE 20W-50 suggest Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 or Castrol Power1 20W-50 Synthetic 4T. Let me know after 6 months or 6,000 miles of use for your next oil change, what you have chosen and how did it perform.
Cheers
Gary
Hello, I have a 2016 Indian Chieftain just made,the 2500 mile,Mark and I want to change mine at the 2500.miles. Is the lucas oil you mentioned above ok to use? I have used lucas with my trucks for years.
My Chieftain recently started chattering a little louder than usual I suspect due to oil viscosity breakdown. Please advise. Thank you
Hi Michael:
What a beaut bike, an Indian Chieftain. Your first oil change at 2,500 miles. If you like the Lucas brand you could use their Lucas Synthetic V-Twin SAE 50W MC Oil but I believe Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 may perform better particularly as meets API CF for that higher engine temperature performance and maybe better viscosity protection from shearing. Not sure why your bike is starting to chatter, could be a couple reasons. The oil used as factory fill may be of lower viscosity (maybe 20W-40?) and/or can shear down mechanically in the engine. Some Factory Fill oils are designed to be changed quickly. I do not know what Indian use but you could ask them. The other reason could be fuel dilution of your oil if you do not do regular long road trips e.g. many short trips particularly in cold ambient conditions can allow gasoline build up in the engine oil thinning it down. Without regular long trips to get the engine temperature right up which will help evaporate the gasoline, the oil can thin out very quickly with chattering as one indicator. This could also lead to premature engine wear. So, suggest you go for a heavier oil, at least SAE20W-50 and ensure you do a long high-speed ride fairly often.
Ride Safe 🙂
Cheers
Gary
GARY, I Have a 2015 harley 103 and I use a full synthetic engine oil. I don’t care about prices.i change oil and filter every 3000 miles.
Should I use 20-50 in all 3 holes or different oils in all 3 holes and what oil or oils brands would you use. I’m looking for tempiture reduction, high flash point, most of all I don’t want an oil that will gum up or where down engine parts. They say they will all work but I don’t have your knowlage of oils and oil additives. Please give all weights and brands for all 3 holes if needed. Thank you from Bob. H
Hi Bob:
Hello fellow HOG rider as I have still mine albeit a ’98 FXDWG stock 80ci! With mine I have used Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 in the engine since new and did use another Mobil synthetic oil for the transmission and a Mobil conventional oil for the primary chain-case. I also changed the engine oil every 3,000 miles but only the others when recommended by HD. I was a ‘perfectionist’ and wanted the best for eack application. I also did not worry ’bout costs! However, today HD & others do not appear to market 3 different oils for the 3 holes! To be honest, I can see their technical reasons initially as they wanted to ensure that the engine oil met their special requirements to protect their V-Twins – particularly hotter air-cooled engines that liked a diesel engine oil rather than a gasoline engine oil re performance and then one oil for all is now technically possible. As a suggestion based on my experience, I would take your HOG to a HD dealership, maybe the one you bought it from, and have your HOG regularly serviced with formal documentation using HD Genuine SYN3 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Lubricant – SAE 20W-50 plus their Genuine HD Oil Filter, in the engine and the other 2 holes as & when required. This is by far, I think, the best option to protect your HOG, hold/improve resale value but not the cheapest but I believe also the safest as a regular service may pick other issues e.g. brakes, tyres, suspension, belt condition etc
Ride Safe 🙂
Cheers
Gary
Good day sir..I have read your article and still finding which the best engine oil (EO) i should use..For your information i m using Kawasaki Ninja 1000 bike with Silkolene Fully syntetic 10W 50 and often change my EO every 3000-4000km..But i m still finding which EO is the best for my bike..There is lot of discuss from my friend and my formen..Some say better use regular oil than syntetic..some say semi syntetic is the best..Please sir..can u help me to answer my question..I want my bike keep longer engine life and tiptop for sure..It is true fully syntetic is the best choice for my bike? And which EO u would recommend for me? For your info, I m from Malaysia with hot and rainy condition..Tq
Hi Tq:
From what I understand, you are using a fully synthetic ester (Group V) based engine oil from Fuchs (Silkoline Fully Synthetic 10W-50) a European company but appears this oil is also designed for your Japanese bike. You change your oil very early every 3000-4000km which most of us bikers do as engine protection, performance & life is our major concern! 🙂 In your hot & humid conditions this is probably the best engine oil for you – you have made the right decision. Guess you don’t ride at speed limits either? – no need to answer! Very frequent oil changes with higher SAE viscosity, being fully synthetic ester based is probably the most expensive oil in your market, but I think you and I know, cost is no option for you when you want the best to protect your bike. Hey, ride safe & enjoy 🙂
Cheers
Gary